Saturday, June 6, 2009
D's Blog
Thursday, April 16, 2009
Judi's Blog
Well it seems obvious where the trend is going this summer in the gardening world. It’s all about VEGETABLES. Everyone wants to supplement their grocery budget by growing as many fresh veggies as their garden space will allow. Call it a Victory Garden or Recession Garden, I have never seen or experienced such a surge towards folks wanting to grow their own food and to be more self-sufficient. We all need to feel like we can take care of ourselves. Maybe it is a bit of a control issue. We all need to eat. Who wants to feel like we are dependant on others for the most basic need of feeding ourselves? Whatever the reason, we are happy to see and help anyone who wants to learn.
La Sumida has one of the largest selections of vegetables in town. But try to understand and don't worry if the vegetable that you want to buy is not in stock when you come into the nursery. We get new deliveries every Wednesday, Thursday and Friday. We will usually have everything that the growers have available for the week, out and displayed by Saturday morning. And please realize that not all the vegetables are available all the time. The growers may run out but will quickly reseed and have more ready as soon as possible. Most of them were caught a little off guard by the unusually high demand this year. They are trying very hard to get the product out to the nurseries. The supply is not keeping up with the demand.
When I order certain veggies on the list they send me every week, there is no way to know for sure if I will actually get them. But I will always try to keep getting whatever I possibly can. Especially with the tomatoes. We carry 108 different varieties, but not all at the same time. Don't panic! There is plenty of time to put all the vegetables in. And we will continue to carry most everything right thru August. And don't forget seeds are always a great alternative. We have a wonderful selection. And remember, a vegetable garden does not have to be put in all in one day.
Sometimes it is a good idea to stagger your planting or even put in a late crop.
So be patient and enjoy the experience of gardening.
Judi
Monday, March 2, 2009
D's Blog
March heralds the arrival of spring. Days grow longer and soil temperature warms. Now is the time to think about feeding, pruning and planning your summer color.
Planting: March is the transition between cool season and warm season plants. http://www.lasumida.com/tips/plantinglists/warmseason.html
Summer color: Annuals: Petunias, Marigolds, Cosmos, Dianthus, etc.
Perennials: Foxglove, Cleome, Delphinium, Nemesia, Salvia, Etc. Etc. Etc.
Summer vegetables and herbs are now arriving. See March planting list for more information. www.lasumida.com/tips/plantinglists/edible_03.html
Lawns may be started from sod or seed. Don’t forget soil amendments and fertilizers to assure best performance. Prepare flower and vegetable beds.
Plant summer blooming bulbs:Tuberous Begonias- plant w/acid planting mix or peat moss indented side up (round bottom side down).
Fuchsias:Pinch back for compact growth. Flowers are produced on new wood. Feed with acid food.
Prune: Prune back dead and old growth on shrubs, vines, and perennials. New growth will be quick to fill in. Shrubs – may be cut back by 1/3. Prune Camellias after they bloom. Grasses/Cannas cut just above the ground.
I hope these tips help get you in the spring gardening mood. D
Sunday, January 25, 2009
Judi's Blog
Saturday, January 3, 2009
D's Blog
Rose Pruning
In Santa Barbara rose pruning season is generally between Christmas and Superbowl. Roses are a deciduous shrub. In our mild climate, we don’t often receive the cold required for real winter dormancy, so it’s especially important to clean them up for a good healthy start in the New Year. Pruning actually breaks dormancy.
We prune roses for health, shape, growth control, and to encourage new canes.
· Remove any dead, diseased or damaged wood.
· Check for sucker growth. Suckers are canes from below the bud union.
· Leave 3, 5 or more, young strong canes. Remove week spindly canes . Remove old gray ones. Best blooms come from new growth. Remove crossing canes, and canes that rub against each other.
· Cut back desired canes into an open vase shape. All pruning cuts should be made ¼ inch above and angled away from an outward facing bud.
· Light pruning is removal of about 1/3 of the height. Hard pruning is about ½. Your pruned rose will probably be 2 to 4 feet tall.
· Saw off any dead wood at the base of the rose if necessary.
· Lightly brush old peeling bark on crown with a brush to stimulate new canes,
· Remove all foliage. Clean up all debris. Apply dormant spray to plant and soil.
· Fertilize in March after foliage grows.
General guidelines:
Hybrid Teas: 3-5+ canes in a vase shape open in the center
Floribundas: 5-7 canes in a vase shape open in the center. Sometimes not pruned as hard as hybrid teas.
Shrub and groundcover: Usually have more “twiggy” growth habits.
Prune the same as a floribunda, leaving more lateral branches.
Climbers: need little pruning for the first few years. Prune to shape.
Leave laterals 2-3 , as this is where climbers bloom. Yes, you do need to strip all the leaves.
Don’t worry. Our roses will recover from any mistakes we may make.
Saturday, December 20, 2008
D's Blog
Frost Tips
In the Santa Barbara area we have many microclimates. Some of these are susceptible to frost damage in cold winters. If you live in the bottom of a canyon you know how chilly it can get.
Do not fertilize permanent landscape plants except for lawn, cool season annuals, and vegetables after October 1. This allows plants to harden off. Tender new growth is more susceptible to frost damage.
Keep your plants well watered. Damp soil retains more heat than dry soil. Mulch to trap soil heat and protect roots.
If frost is in the forecast, there are precautions you can take. Group tender container plants under eaves, against the house, under covered patios or large trees. They may be covered with sheets, blankets or products like row cover and insulation cloth. If you use plastic, make sure you stake it up, so it does not touch plants. You can string large bulb Christmas lights to keep plants warm.
Many plants don’t mind cold weather. Most of our trees and shrubs will be fine. It’s the plants of tropical origins that are very unhappy. Examples include: Hibiscus, Bougainvillea, Impatiens, Mandevilla and Ficus If you have tender plants you may cover them the same as your containers above. Make sure you uncover plants before the sun hits them the next morning.
If you get frost damage the most important thing to remember is: Do not prune off damaged foliage until new growth appears in the spring and all danger of frost is past. In Santa Barbara this is usually late February. Frost damaged leaves and stems may not be attractive but they will protect the plant from subsequent frosts.
After an occasional hard frost it’s a good idea to hose the plants off before the sun hits them.
Most established woody plants survive Santa Barbara frosts with minor injury. If you live in an area that freezes most winters its best to avoid tropicals. Watch for clear, cloudless, winter nights with low humidity. A great place to check the forecast is: http://www.nws.noaa.gov/ or 805 9886610.