Friday, August 21, 2009
D's Blog
Thursday, July 16, 2009
Judi's Blog
So now we are head long into summer. The rush of spring planting is over. Our thoughts now turn to keeping our gardens watered and disease and bug free while we wait for our vegetables to ripen and enjoy the fruits of our labor. I have already harvested some of my potatoes, zukes and tomatoes.
While I know that vacation and summertime activities are priority and dominating our lives right now, we don't want to forget our initial excitement and investment into our vegetable adventure. Planting time is not over. Lettuce can be planted every two weeks. Beans can also make a second appearance in the garden. Squash, cucumbers and chard can still be planted to last longer into the end of summer when your first early plantings have pooped out. And don't forget that peppers are perennials. They will actually do even better next year as a more mature plants. So think ahead and plant now for next season’s early start.
Most of all, now is the time to start planning for your "Fall" or as I like to call them, your "Late Season" (Cool Season) tomatoes. If planted before the end of September, many varieties of determinate and short season tomatoes will give you fruit into December depending on the weather.
Good varieties to try are: Early Girl, Siberian, First Lady, San Francisco Fog, Glacier, Siletz, Jetsetter, Stupice, Legend, Subarctic, Manitoba, Sun Cherry, Oregon Spring, Sun-gold Cherry,Peasant, and Taxi.
P.S. If you are having problems with your garden, bring samples into us at the nursery. We are here to help you learn. Farmers face different challenges year to year and so does the home gardener. There are good years and bad years. Weather, rodents, bugs and disease are always a challenge. Don't give up. Don't quit. Learn and grow! Judi
Saturday, June 6, 2009
D's Blog
Thursday, April 16, 2009
Judi's Blog
Well it seems obvious where the trend is going this summer in the gardening world. It’s all about VEGETABLES. Everyone wants to supplement their grocery budget by growing as many fresh veggies as their garden space will allow. Call it a Victory Garden or Recession Garden, I have never seen or experienced such a surge towards folks wanting to grow their own food and to be more self-sufficient. We all need to feel like we can take care of ourselves. Maybe it is a bit of a control issue. We all need to eat. Who wants to feel like we are dependant on others for the most basic need of feeding ourselves? Whatever the reason, we are happy to see and help anyone who wants to learn.
La Sumida has one of the largest selections of vegetables in town. But try to understand and don't worry if the vegetable that you want to buy is not in stock when you come into the nursery. We get new deliveries every Wednesday, Thursday and Friday. We will usually have everything that the growers have available for the week, out and displayed by Saturday morning. And please realize that not all the vegetables are available all the time. The growers may run out but will quickly reseed and have more ready as soon as possible. Most of them were caught a little off guard by the unusually high demand this year. They are trying very hard to get the product out to the nurseries. The supply is not keeping up with the demand.
When I order certain veggies on the list they send me every week, there is no way to know for sure if I will actually get them. But I will always try to keep getting whatever I possibly can. Especially with the tomatoes. We carry 108 different varieties, but not all at the same time. Don't panic! There is plenty of time to put all the vegetables in. And we will continue to carry most everything right thru August. And don't forget seeds are always a great alternative. We have a wonderful selection. And remember, a vegetable garden does not have to be put in all in one day.
Sometimes it is a good idea to stagger your planting or even put in a late crop.
So be patient and enjoy the experience of gardening.
Judi
Monday, March 2, 2009
D's Blog
March heralds the arrival of spring. Days grow longer and soil temperature warms. Now is the time to think about feeding, pruning and planning your summer color.
Planting: March is the transition between cool season and warm season plants. http://www.lasumida.com/tips/plantinglists/warmseason.html
Summer color: Annuals: Petunias, Marigolds, Cosmos, Dianthus, etc.
Perennials: Foxglove, Cleome, Delphinium, Nemesia, Salvia, Etc. Etc. Etc.
Summer vegetables and herbs are now arriving. See March planting list for more information. www.lasumida.com/tips/plantinglists/edible_03.html
Lawns may be started from sod or seed. Don’t forget soil amendments and fertilizers to assure best performance. Prepare flower and vegetable beds.
Plant summer blooming bulbs:Tuberous Begonias- plant w/acid planting mix or peat moss indented side up (round bottom side down).
Fuchsias:Pinch back for compact growth. Flowers are produced on new wood. Feed with acid food.
Prune: Prune back dead and old growth on shrubs, vines, and perennials. New growth will be quick to fill in. Shrubs – may be cut back by 1/3. Prune Camellias after they bloom. Grasses/Cannas cut just above the ground.
I hope these tips help get you in the spring gardening mood. D
Sunday, January 25, 2009
Judi's Blog
Saturday, January 3, 2009
D's Blog
Rose Pruning
In Santa Barbara rose pruning season is generally between Christmas and Superbowl. Roses are a deciduous shrub. In our mild climate, we don’t often receive the cold required for real winter dormancy, so it’s especially important to clean them up for a good healthy start in the New Year. Pruning actually breaks dormancy.
We prune roses for health, shape, growth control, and to encourage new canes.
· Remove any dead, diseased or damaged wood.
· Check for sucker growth. Suckers are canes from below the bud union.
· Leave 3, 5 or more, young strong canes. Remove week spindly canes . Remove old gray ones. Best blooms come from new growth. Remove crossing canes, and canes that rub against each other.
· Cut back desired canes into an open vase shape. All pruning cuts should be made ¼ inch above and angled away from an outward facing bud.
· Light pruning is removal of about 1/3 of the height. Hard pruning is about ½. Your pruned rose will probably be 2 to 4 feet tall.
· Saw off any dead wood at the base of the rose if necessary.
· Lightly brush old peeling bark on crown with a brush to stimulate new canes,
· Remove all foliage. Clean up all debris. Apply dormant spray to plant and soil.
· Fertilize in March after foliage grows.
General guidelines:
Hybrid Teas: 3-5+ canes in a vase shape open in the center
Floribundas: 5-7 canes in a vase shape open in the center. Sometimes not pruned as hard as hybrid teas.
Shrub and groundcover: Usually have more “twiggy” growth habits.
Prune the same as a floribunda, leaving more lateral branches.
Climbers: need little pruning for the first few years. Prune to shape.
Leave laterals 2-3 , as this is where climbers bloom. Yes, you do need to strip all the leaves.
Don’t worry. Our roses will recover from any mistakes we may make.
Saturday, December 20, 2008
D's Blog
Frost Tips
In the Santa Barbara area we have many microclimates. Some of these are susceptible to frost damage in cold winters. If you live in the bottom of a canyon you know how chilly it can get.
Do not fertilize permanent landscape plants except for lawn, cool season annuals, and vegetables after October 1. This allows plants to harden off. Tender new growth is more susceptible to frost damage.
Keep your plants well watered. Damp soil retains more heat than dry soil. Mulch to trap soil heat and protect roots.
If frost is in the forecast, there are precautions you can take. Group tender container plants under eaves, against the house, under covered patios or large trees. They may be covered with sheets, blankets or products like row cover and insulation cloth. If you use plastic, make sure you stake it up, so it does not touch plants. You can string large bulb Christmas lights to keep plants warm.
Many plants don’t mind cold weather. Most of our trees and shrubs will be fine. It’s the plants of tropical origins that are very unhappy. Examples include: Hibiscus, Bougainvillea, Impatiens, Mandevilla and Ficus If you have tender plants you may cover them the same as your containers above. Make sure you uncover plants before the sun hits them the next morning.
If you get frost damage the most important thing to remember is: Do not prune off damaged foliage until new growth appears in the spring and all danger of frost is past. In Santa Barbara this is usually late February. Frost damaged leaves and stems may not be attractive but they will protect the plant from subsequent frosts.
After an occasional hard frost it’s a good idea to hose the plants off before the sun hits them.
Most established woody plants survive Santa Barbara frosts with minor injury. If you live in an area that freezes most winters its best to avoid tropicals. Watch for clear, cloudless, winter nights with low humidity. A great place to check the forecast is: http://www.nws.noaa.gov/ or 805 9886610.
Monday, December 1, 2008
D's blog
Thursday, November 13, 2008
Judi's Blog
Fall Rose Care
One of the most asked questions for this time of year at the Nursery is, "what to do with the roses?" After the summer heat, fall's cool down can produce some of the years best blooms.
Do you feed? Do you prune? Should you continue to spray for insects and disease?
No, to all of the above: most experts let them rest. If you must, you may pick or dead head the flowers before Thanksgiving but that is about it until January. With the cooler temperatures, the roses feel like it is spring again. They love the cool nights and sunny days. You can still get a last great bloom for Thanksgiving.
But do not feed! You don't want to encourage new growth as we go into winter with shorter days and colder temperatures. The buds and flowers would be ruined by the moisture and dampness in our coastal air. You want them to slow down and rest. To conserve their energy for next springs big show.
By allowing the roses to "bloom out" and develop "rose hips", it sends a signal to the bush to slow down. It will stop putting out new growth and forces it into dormancy. It has been working all summer and needs some time off, just like us.
You can keep the bush clean from yellowing leaves if you must, but it is going to look a bit raggedy anyway. It's just that time of year. Very important, is to not forget the regular watering. Even though they are slowing down, their need for water goes on thru winter.
So now, for the most part, you can take some time off from the demanding summer rose care until January. At that time you will have to jump back into "rose maintenance", with the hard pruning and dormant spraying for insects and disease. But that is a whole other subject.
So until then, enjoy the rose season's last and possibly, “best blooms", of the year. And don't forget to check our website for the 2009 Bareroot rose list. It is never too late to find a new place to squeeze in a new rose.
Judi
Monday, October 13, 2008
D's Blog
| Trees for Planting in Lawns Many trees do not like to be planted in lawns. They perform best with deep infrequent water rather than the shallow frequent water we put on our lawns. We often see problems with lawn planted citrus in particular. Here is a list I've started. If you have any suggestions email me at nursery@lasumida.com. Planting a tree is a big commitment. It will probably outlive you. It's important to plant the right tree in the right place. My favorite website for choosing trees is http://selectree.calpoly.edu They have over 6000 photos of over 1000 trees. You can also search for trees by many attributes. Some of these include: climate zone, soil type, size, utilities, root damage, growth rate, disease and pest resistance, fire danger, flower color, etc. etc. etc. I always advise customers looking at trees to "do the research' and this website makes it easy. Take care, D Arbutus unedo Strawberry Tree |
| Betula Birch |
| Geijera parviflora Australian Willow |
| Gingko Biloba Maidenhair Tree |
| Hymenospermum flavum Sweet Shade |
| Koelreuteria Chinese Flame Tree and Goldenrain Tree |
| Liquidambar Sweet Gum |
| Magnolia grandiflora ‘Little Gem’ |
| Magnolia soulangeana hybrids |
| Maytenus boaria Mayten |
| Melaleuca quinquenervia Paperbark Tree |
| Pistacia chinensis Chinese Pistache |
| Podocarpus gracilior Fern Pine |
| Salix matsuda ‘Tortuosa’ Corkscrew Willow |
| Tipuana Tipu Tipu Tree |
| Tristaniaopsis laurina Water Gum |
Monday, September 29, 2008
Judi's Blog
With fall comes the transition of the summer garden into winter color. Hard to think about sometimes when the days are still nice and warm. This can be a confusing timing issue. After the warm August and September days, while most of the garden is still showing color, it can be a little tired and overgrown. Even the garden at the front of the nursery shows the "end of summer" stress.
So this is the time to re-look at the garden. See what needs to be cut back or taken out. I know that it can be hard to prune back plants when they are still trying to perform, but it is better to do the trimming now, so they have time to re-grow before the cooler winter nights slow them down and they don't have time to put out new growth. You can also take this time to decide on what needs to be taken out or relocated. We all have planted and then realized that it was the wrong choice or didn't perform the way we may have envisioned.
My gardens are never static. I am always learning and changing. Plants I thought would look good and fit nicely into my landscape, end up getting to big, out of control, or just don't look like what I wanted. So I usually dig it up, pull it out or move it and swear that I am going to simplify my garden and make my life easier next year.
Fall is a great time to think about changing your garden. It is still warm enough for new plantings to root in. And there is still a good selection of perennials available at the nursery. Also the colorful, winter annuals and cool season veggies have arrived.
http://www.lasumida.com/tips/plantinglists/edible_10.html
http://www.lasumida.com/tips/plantinglists/coolseason.html
Also, our Fall planted bulbs have arrived. Plant now for Spring color.
http://www.lasumida.com/seasonal/bulblist.html#fall
Don't be afraid to make changes. That is what keeps the garden interesting.I love to see the different combinations our customers put together. Keep on learning, Judi
Saturday, August 30, 2008
D's Blog
Thoughts on Water Part 2
We receive more questions, and see more problems, in the nursery related to watering, than perhaps any other subject. In the 4/26/08 Blog I discussed water for landscape plants. This week I’ll address outdoor container plants. How do we water all the plants in the Nursery?
Embarrassingly it’s not just our customers who have problems. We do too. Sometimes we see over watering and sometimes under watering. It’s the hardest thing for us to train our new employees. First of all you need to know how much water individual or groups of plants perform best with. Classes of plants have differing water requirements. For example: our ferns will need water more often than our camellias. Hanging baskets and small containers need watering way more frequently than a 15-gallon tree. To further complicate matters, some growers use light fast draining potting mixes, while others use heavier water holding mixes. We could have the same Blue Salvia in the same size pot, from two different growers, and one will be dry, and one wet, even though they were last watered at the same time.
We train: “always water a dry plant, do not water a wet plant”. We teach to look for signs: drooping foliage, learn how heavy the container feels when it is wet, and how heavy when it is dry. Look at the bottom holes of nursery containers: are they moist or dry? Stick your finger in the pot: is the soil dry down two inches?
The next thing we have to train is how to water. We have to watch new people to make sure they are not blasting the soil out of the container. On flowers and small bedding plants etc. I like to use a water wand. The water-wand disperses the water and helps to not bruise the flowers. We train to water early in the day whenever possible so the plants “don’t go to bed wet”.
We train to “water the container, not the foliage “ We say: “water until it comes out the bottom of the container.”
I hope this look into our problems helps you with some of your watering questions. Thanks for the opportunity to clarify my thoughts; there will be more on this subject in the future.
Take care, D
Saturday, August 16, 2008
D's Blog

Thursday, July 24, 2008
Judi's Blog
What a busy couple of weeks it has been. My fruit trees all came ripe at the same time: apricots, peaches and nectarines. Biggest crops I have ever had. And for once, we got them covered with netting before the birds discovered them.
Why such a great harvest this year? We had cool winter, a good amount of rain and a perfect spring? I did give them more water this year than I have in the past. Was it all the work we did pruning, spraying and feeding? Or was it just that the moon and stars were all lined up right? Who knows?
All I know is that I had a ton of jam to make and there seemed to be a shortage of half pint canning jars in town. Not only that, but pectin was in short supply and very expensive this year. You would think that that the stores would stock up at this time of year. You try so hard to do everything right to get a good crop and then when the magic happens, you can't find the supplies that you need to make the fruits of your labor come to fruition. Lesson learned...BUY YOUR CANNING SUPPLIES EARLY!!!
When I was in the grocery store complaining about the lack of seasonal supplies, most everyone was quick to point out, that it was cheaper to just by the store jam. They obviously have never had the "Golden Nectar" from a fresh, ripe, organically grown apricot or peach tree,
or the jams, pies, crisps and tons of fresh fruit. Yes, it was a bumper year.
So now that I have a years worth of jam in the pantry and my Christmas gifts are set and ready, I can relax and not worry about my fruit trees until it is time to prune and spray again in January. The birds can have whatever I have left behind (it's always nice to share).
Now my big worry is how do I keep my tomatoes healthy and producing while I go up to
There will be no one to reap the bounties of all my tomatoes, squash, cucumbers, eggplants and peppers as they reach their moment of productive glory. Can I trust anyone to really care for my garden while I am gone? This is a dilemma that a lot of us have when we go on our summer vacation. I am going to put my trust in my young friend, Nick Carlson, someone I have known since he was in the third grade. These tomatoes are very important. I always experiment with different heirloom varieties. Some work, some don't. Every year brings different results. I keep trying to weed through the process of why some work and others fail.
There is weather, varieties and cultural needs. What works in
Sometimes it is not the plants fault. You have got to keep trying. Just because Hillbilly did not work last year, does not mean that it won't be great this year. Keep trying.
Example: Three years ago my Hillbilly was good. Last year I only got three off of a sad looking bush. This year I have over 20 tomatoes ( and they are usually a pound each) on one plant. Oh yeah!!! Keep on trying!!!
See you in September.
Monday, July 7, 2008
D's Blog
Monday, June 16, 2008
Judi's Blog
The pace has slowed down a bit here at the nursery. The spring push to get the gardens remodeled with a fresh look and the vegetables planted (to hopefully cut our grocery costs) are now over. Now we are just trying to keep everything watered and healthy.
In the nursery, we are still fully supplied with all the summer, heat-loving color. Black-eyed Susan, purple coneflower and of course the ever popular, petunias, marigolds and zinnias. Most all the landscaping shrubs and hardy perennials are looking good and still very available. If you have a hillside or erosion control problem-NOW is the time to plant it up. Don't wait until the winter rains come. Get the young plants started now. Give the roots time to grow strong and root in.
And of course, don't forget the roses. We still have hundreds to choose from and they can be planted anytime all summer long. Remember to keep deadheading and feeding every six weeks for best performance. If bugs or disease are a problem, bring in samples. We will try to give you the most organic and safe solution to the problem. Don’t forget that our rose field is closed every Wednesday for maintenance.
In the vegetable garden, there is still plenty of time to plant tomatoes, squash, beans, eggplant, peppers and herbs. I just planted more tomatoes and cucumbers, this weekend. You can continue to plant new crops of lettuce every few weeks. Maybe giving them afternoon shade as the summer gets warmer.
Right now the emphasis is on feeding, mulching and maintenance. Watching out for bugs and disease.
But don't forget the most important job of all:
Sit back, relax and enjoy!
Judi
Monday, June 2, 2008
D's Blog
July 24 Sorry... Event Cancelled

Our annual Tomato Tasting Experience will be Sunday September 7 from 12 to 2. That's in almost 100 days. Why am I telling you now? I am telling you now because you still have time to put in tomatoes to enter our contests. You even have time to grow tomatoes from seed.
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Judi's Blog
A lot of you folks already have your vegetable gardens planted for the summer. I got mine started about four weeks ago and it's coming on strong. For those of you who feel like you might be getting a late start-don't worry! You still have plenty of time. We will be carrying most all of the summer veggies through August. Its actually better to wait. In March and April, even though the days can be warm and sunny, the nights are still cool. Plants like, eggplant, cucumbers and peppers, will not do well. Most people start to early and try to put in everything all at once. This can lead to disease and loss of vigor for your vegetables.
Bacterial speck, alternaria, and early blight are diseases with very similar symptoms. It starts off as splatters of rusty brown spots on the leaves. The leaves may start turning yellow. They usually affect the lower and older growth first. Each disorder has its own special look.
Hopefully we won't see to many bug and disease problems this summer. But if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us or bring in samples. We will be glad to help you find an organic and healthy solution to your problem.




